Japan

Japan stands apart from most places in the world — its food, culture, and way of life are strikingly unique. It’s also a country that excels in technology, transportation, and etiquette.

We dashed to Osaka from Hong Kong (more on that later) and settled into a small local neighborhood near the train station. It was unseasonably warm, and many people — especially the elderly — were out on their bicycles, heading to markets.

Osaka is known for its food, energy, and humor. It’s often called Japan’s “kitchen” because of its street food — takoyaki (octopus balls), okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), and kushikatsu (fried skewers). The city has a loud, friendly vibe that contrasts with Tokyo’s formality.

Overall, Japan seems to have more restaurants per block than just about anywhere.

Our first night, our host invited us to an exclusive evening at Gucci Giardino. Opened in Umeda, Osaka in November 2024, it’s the second Gucci bar in the world — the first being in Florence, Italy.

We are greeted at the door and escorted upstairs to a swank, intimate bar. Our bartender, Mari Tsujimura, spoils us with bespoke cocktails. In time, we are joined by chef Taffarello Alessio, who presents us with refined dishes — elegant, thoughtful, and unmistakably Italian.

The environment is relaxed, inviting conversation and friendly exchanges, even within the limitations of language. When we leave, we are literally walked to the door, bowed to, and thanked — a gesture of hospitality that feels both formal and heartfelt. We step out into the balmy Osaka night.

The next day, we head out on the bullet train to Kyoto.

Kyoto is known as the cultural heart of Japan — a city where over a thousand years of history, art, and tradition are beautifully preserved. Once Japan’s imperial capital (794–1868), it remains one of the most enchanting cities in the world.

Our destination is the Gion District, Kyoto’s most famous and historic neighborhood, known as the city’s traditional geisha quarter. It’s a place where old Kyoto’s charm still thrives — narrow cobblestone streets, wooden machiya (townhouses), lantern-lit teahouses, and an atmosphere that feels centuries old.

And it is stunning.

Maybe it’s because it’s autumn, or because it’s late afternoon, but Gion feels like a living postcard — calm, perfectly lit, touched by history. There’s a sense of quiet art direction in everything: the colors, the scents, the soft shuffle of sandals on stone. Every now and then, you glimpse a geisha walking gracefully to work, and time seems to pause.

Kyoto is a city of shrines and temples — about 400 Shinto shrines and over a thousand Buddhist temples. The most famous is Fushimi Inari Taisha, known for its thousands of red torii gates. It’s also where you’ll find thousands of tourists. If you’re hoping for a serene photograph beneath the gates, patience (or luck) will be required.

Kyoto is also known for Kyo-ryori, a cuisine that emphasizes subtle flavors and seasonal ingredients. But on this night, we opt for something local to our neighborhood — a small Italian restaurant called Il Tobanchi, a creative bar tucked inside a renovated machiya on Sanjo Ogawa.

Owner, chef and all-around fun host is Toba, who serves up a combination of Japanese-Italian dishes. His wife and pet dog sit next to us engaging in lively conversation about Kyoto, his family, and Japanese cuisine. We learn that Toba was actually born on this property and his parent live in the rear.

In many Kyoto represents a part of Japan that is about quiet beauty, calm and culture. The few days spent here are postcards—vastly different than Osaka and especially Tokyo.

We head back to Osaka on the bullet train.

The trains in Japan are fast and efficient but not particularly interesting. If you have a reserved seat, you take your seat and there you sit for the duration. There is no food car, but a woman with a  food cart does stroll along every so often. The kōmuin, or conductor also passes through each car and it should be noted that in Japan, as they exit and enter the car, they slightly bow.

Japan itself is an exercise in cleanliness. Japanese culture emphasizes personal hygiene, and washing after using the toilet is considered much cleaner than just using toilet paper. It should be noted that Japanese companies like Toto pioneered the “washlet” — a high-tech toilet with integrated bidet functions — in the 1980s. These became popular because they combined comfort, hygiene, and convenience. The washlet or bidet is ubiquitous.  They can be found in train stations and departments stores—pristine, clean and immaculate. And in most homes. This also extends to the gym experience in Japan: when you enter the locker room you are required to remove your shoes. You walk barefoot, but in the event you need a restroom you are offered public slippers. Once you head back to the work out area you can put your shoes back on. But wait, there’s more.

At every workout station there is a disinfectant bottle and rag to wipe down the equipment when finished.

Much of this has to do with the population and their culture. Japan has 125 million people making it one of the most densely populated countries in the world. It’s a small island approximately the size of California. Their cars tend to be small and boxy, as most apartments are compact. They are, as a culture, mostly in tune with one another.